The Waldviertel wilfully toys with its landscape making granite boulders move or just leaving them scattered about. As a watershed determines whether the raindrops find their way to the Black Sea or to the North Sea. Invents innumerable shades of green. Splatters blobs of colour in-between - as a field of poppies or a flowering meadow. Provides sanctuary for animals and plants that are long extinct elsewhere. Abandons moors for thousands of years leaving them to turn into rich black peat. Refreshes with its clear air, pervades every pore, gets under one's skin …